Asparagus Pots

To prepare the white asparagus mousse: Pare the white asparagus stalks and chop into 1 - to 2-inch pieces. Season a large pot of salted water with the lemon juice and sugar. Bring to a boil, add the white asparagus, and cook until the asparagus is soft, 4 - 6 minutes. Lift the asparagus from the broth with a slotted spoon and set aside on a plate. Increase the heat to high and reduce the asparagus liquid to 1/4 cup. Return the asparagus pieces to the broth. Stir in 1/2 tablespoon of butter and melt; toss to coat. Add the heavy cream and bring to a boil. Blend with a stick blender or in a food processor or blender. Strain through a sieve into a heatproof bowl.

Dissolve the gelatin in the cold water. Add to the asparagus mixture, stirring until completely dissolved. Place the bowl with the mixture into a larger bowl of ice and whisk the mixture until it is chilled. Whisk a large spoonful of the whipped cream into the mixture, then fold in the remaining whipped cream. Cover with plastic wrap and chill 1-1/2 to 2 hours in the refrigerator.

To prepare the sweetbreads: Soak the sweetbreads in 3 to 4 changes of cold water for at least an hour. Bring a saucepan of water seasoned with the lemon juice to a low simmer over medium-low heat. Place the sweetbreads into the barely simmering water and poach 3 - 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and plunge into ice water; let cool, then lift again and drain. Trim any connective tissue and membranes and separate into lobes. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in the refrigerator until ready to use.

To prepare the asparagus pots: Pare the asparagus stalks. Place the asparagus tips in a large pot of salted water and bring to a boil. Cook 30 to 45 seconds. Remove from heat, drain, and plunge into a bowl of ice water. Let chill 30 seconds, then lift with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Dissolve the gelatin in the veal stock. Place it in a shallow bowl set over a bowl of warm water to melt it completely.

Melt the butter in a saute pan or skillet over medium heat and add the morels. Saute until softened; season with salt. Drain very well on paper towels; pat dry.

Place six 3-inch ring molds or PVC pipe on a baking sheet. Dip the green asparagus tips in the warm gelatin, then place, tips up, around the inside of the molds, sticking the spears to the molds and placing them tightly side-by-side. Put the white asparagus mousse in a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip and fill the molds one-third of the way with mousse. Press morels into the mouse. Pipe another layer of mousse over the morels, and press another layer of morels into the mousse. Spoon a thin layer of the gelatin over the top of each final layer. Cover lightly with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

To finish the sweetbreads: Slice the sweetbreads. Heat the clarified butter in a small saute pan or skillet over medium-high heat and saute the sweetbreads until lightly browned on all sides. Remove and drain on paper towels.

To make the vinaigrette: Whisk the ingredients together in a small non-aluminum bowl.

To serve: Remove the molds from the refrigerator and warm the outsides slightly with a warm towel to loosen the gelatin. Place in the center of a serving plate and lift off the mold. Repeat with remaining molds. Place two veal sweetbreads on each plate, one on either side of the mold. Place four sprigs of mache around each mold. Drizzle vinaigrette over the mache and plates.