Roulade of Salmon with Egg and Capers
To make the salmon roulade the chef uses nori—paper-thin sheets of dried seaweed. Nori can range in color from dark green to dark purple to black, and has a sweet ocean taste. It is commonly used for wrapping sushi and rice balls. If the nori is too brittle to handle, warm in a 350° oven for about 10 minutes or until it softens.
- Egg Rolls
- White Wine - 2 tablespoons
- Cornstarch - 1 tablespoon
- Eggs - 3
- Capers - 1 tablespoon
- Clarified Butter - 2 tablespoons (see Basics)
- Salmon fillets - 4, 6-ounce
- Sea salt and pepper to taste
- Nori sheets - 4
- Peanut Oil - 4 cups
- Tempura Batter
- Egg White - 1
- Egg - 1
- Ice Water - 1 cup
- All-Purpose Flour - 1 cup
- Cornstarch - 1⁄2 cup
- Baking Soda - 2 tablespoons
- Beurre Blanc
- Unsalted Butter - 2 tablespoons
- Shallots - 1⁄4 cup, peeled and minced
- Dry white wine - 2 cups
- Bay Leaf - 1
- Unsalted Butter - 1-1⁄2cups, cut into tablespoon-size pieces
- Cucumber - 1 tablespoon, peeled, seeded, and diced
- Tomato - 1 tablespoon, peeled, seeded, and diced
- Fresh Dill - 3 sprigs, chopped
To make the egg rolls: In a small mixing bowl combine the white wine with the cornstarch to make a slurry (the word slurry refers to a thin paste of water and flour, which is stirred into hot liquids and used as a thickener.) After the slurry is added, the mixture should be stirred and cooked for several minutes so that the flour loses its raw taste). In a separate mixing bowl whisk the eggs until frothy, add the capers, and blend in the slurry.
Wipe a medium saute pan or nonstick skillet with enough clarified butter to coat the surface and place over high heat. Ladle one-fourth of the batter into the pan and swirl the pan so that the bottom is coated evenly. Cook the crepe for 30 to 45 seconds or until the surface of the crepe looks dry. Flip with a thin metal spatula and cook another 20 to 30 seconds. Transfer the crepe to a cutting board and roll into a cigar shape. Cover with a damp towel. Repeat with the remaining batter to make 4 egg rolls.
To prepare the salmon roulades: Season the salmon with sea salt and black pepper to taste. Place the egg roll along the long side of the salmon and roll up jelly roll fashion. With a long side of the nori sheet facing you, place the salmon on the sheet, leaving a 1⁄2-inch border on the long sides. Beginning with the long side tightly roll up the nori jelly roll fashion.
To make the tempura batter and fry the roulades: In a large bowl combine the egg white and the egg. Add the ice water. In a small bowl combine the flour, cornstarch, and baking soda. Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture and stir without combining completely. The batter should be lumpy with a consistency just thick enough to coat your finger. You can thin the batter by adding more ice water, or thicken with additional flour. Dip the roulades into the tempura batter. At this point either proceed to cooking the roulades or keep in the refrigerator until ready to fry.
In a deep, heavy pot or deep-fryer heat the peanut oil over high heat until the oil is hot but not smoking (350 F on a fat thermometer). Deep-fry the roulades for about 2 minutes or until very lightly colored. Drain on paper towels while making the beurre blanc.
To make the beurre blanc: In a small saucepan melt the butter over medium heat and saute the shallots until translucent. Add the white wine and bay leaf, increase the heat to high, and cook at a fast boil until the liquid is reduced by half. Remove the pan from the heat and remove the bay leaf. Whisk in the butter one tablespoon at a time, making sure each piece has been incorporated before adding the next one. Keep the pan off the stove but have a burner set on low to reheat the sauce briefly if it becomes too cool to melt the butter. The sauce should be kept hot enough that steam rises from the surface, but should not be bubbling. Add the cucumber pieces, tomato concassée, and fresh chopped dill. Reheat briefly over low heat before serving and season to taste with salt and pepper.
To serve: Cut the roulade with a sharp knife into 3⁄4-inch-thick diagonal slices and serve with the beurre blanc.